Mojo Surf Camp

This past weekend I went up north for surf camp.  I have learned to surf once before in Hawaii but it was about seven years ago, so I wasn’t sure how it would go when I tried it again.  We were up at Crescent Head, about six hours north of Sydney at a beautiful, secluded beach.  Before our first surf, the guys went over some of the rules about being safe in the water and with the board.  We weren’t supposed to have the board in front of us in the water, because if a wave came it could smack us in the face, knock out teeth, or completely knock us out.  We also learned more about rips and how they can actually help surfers, on boards, get out past the breakers.

Once we were in the water, the instructors had us start on smaller waves to get used to the balancing.  I learned very quickly that if your feet aren’t flat on the board and in the middle of the board, you will fall into the water.  The whole first session, I couldn’t seem to get the hang of it.  After we came back from lunch, someone told me if I tried to push up by holding the rails of the board I would make it wobble and make it more difficult for myself; I then tried pushing up in the middle of the board and stood up without a problem.  After that, the rest of the trip was a blast.